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The History of Mashhad
Mashad is the capital of Khorasan province in the North East of Iran, 892 km
away from Tehran. It is located at the altitude of 985 Meter occupying an area
of 204 sq. Km. and has a population of about 1.5 million. Mashad grew from a
small village called Sanabad, 24 km away from Tus. After the martyrdom of Imam
Ali ibn Musa Al-Ridha and his burial there in 203 AH, the place came to be known
as Mashad Al-Ridha. Astan-Qods-Razavi (the name given to the physical buildings
comprising the Haram) is one of the most beautiful and glorious religious places
in Iran. The best of Islamic art and architecture can be seen in the unique
and significant monuments where Islamic art and faith is embedded.
History of the construction of Astan-Qods-Razavi
Hamza ibne Qahtabah, the Abbasid army commander who had led the war against
the Ommayids was appointed by Mansur and Al-Mahdi, the Abbasid caliphs as the
Governor of Khorasan. He made a big garden between Noughan and Sanadan and erected
a palace which stood up to the beginning of the 4th century AH. Haroon, who
had come to Tus to suppress the Khorasan rebellion, became ill and resided in
the garden during his ailment. But he died in 193 H. And was buried inside the
palace. Upon his tomb a shrine was built.
In 203 AH, Imam Al-Ridha, peace be upon him, was poisoned by Mamoun, the son of Haroon and Imam was buried alongside with Haroon. Since the martyrdom of Imam, his holy shrine became a place of pilgrimage for the world's Shias and the city spread so far as Noughan and Sanabad were annexed to it to become Mashad Al-Ridha, shortened over time to Mashad.
The holy shrine was ruined by Saboktakin, a Ghaznavid king. But his son, Sultan Mahmoud ordered the shrine to be repaired and expanded in 428 AH. During the invasion of Changis and his son, Tooly, the holy shrine was ruined again. Sultan Mohamed Khoda-Banda, a Shiite king of Moghol dynasty, who reigned from 703 to 716 AH, had the holy shrine rebuilt. Since the time of Safavids, Afshars and Qajars todate many of the Astane-Qods buildings have been expanded.
BASTS (Places of Refuge)
Basts were places of refuge from the tyranny of dictators and provided the best
refuge for the people under persecution. In Astane-Qods-Razavi there exist two
large yards on each side of Sahne Enqelab (Revolution Court) namely Baste Payeen
Khiaban (Lower Bast) and Baste Bala Khiaban (Upper Bast). Today Basts are used
as two entrances to Imam Al-Ridha's Holy Shrine. In recent years two new Basts
have been built namely Baste Sheikh Bahai (between Gowharshad Mosque and Sahne
Jamburi Islami) and Baste Tabarsi (between the Islamic University and the new
building of Astane-Qods Library).
Sahne Enqelab
This is one of the most beautiful and glorious buildings of Astane Qods Razavi.
The four balconies in this court are Abbasi (North) , Tala (South), Naqqareh
Khaneh (East) upon which lies Naqqareh Khaneh, Sa'at (Clock) (West) upon which
is a big clock. These balconies which attest to the best of architecture are
more than three centuries old. There is a big rectangular window in this court
made of bronze and steel. Tala, the golden balcony was built by Amir Alishir
Navaiee, Sultan Bighara's wise vizier in 872 H. The northern Abbasi balcony
was constructed during Shah Abbas's reign in 1021 AH.
Minarets
The two golden minarets of Imam Ridha's shrine have been specially built. The
minarets are usually made on the two sides of the dome and near the dome. But
these two minarets have been built far from each other. One, close to the Dome,
upon Naderi balcony in the southern section of Sahne Enqelab and the other far
in the northern section of Sahne Enqelab on Abbasi balcony. Although lack of
symmetry can be clearly felt, it has been done on purpose so that when pilgrims
enter Haram from Imam Ridha Avenue they can see the minarets and the Dome in
the middle. The minaret which is close to the Dome was built by Shah Tahmasb
Safavi and has a height of 40.5 meters and a circumference of 13 meters. The
other minaret on Abbasi balcony was built at the time of Nader Shah.
Nqqareh Khaneh (Place of Kettle Drums)
In 860 H. When Baisonqor Shahrokh's son came to Mashad from Herat to Haram to
seek remedy from Imam Ridha kettledrums were beaten to announce his presence.
Since then this practice has been performed every day before sunrise and sunset
except mourning period. The place where kettledrums are performed is on the
eastern balcony of Sahne Enqelab.
Saqqa Khaneh (Public Drinking Place)
There is a public drinking place called hawze Ismail Talai in the middle of
Sahne Enqelab with a gilded inscription belonging to the time of Nader Shah
Afshar's reign. That is why it is called Naderi drinking place. The marble pool
was brought from Her on Nader Shah's orders. The golden bricks with which the
inscription has been written was made by Ismail, an artist whose name the drinking
place bears. It was rebuilt in 1347 H.
Sa'at (the Clock)
There is a big clock on the western balcony of Sahne Enqelab. It dates back
to the period of Mozaffar-al-Din Shah's period.
Sahne Jamhuri Islami (Islamic Republic Court)
This Sahn which is 10,000 square meters in size was built in recent years. It
has two minarets at the back of the northern and Southern gates. Each minaret
is 30 meters high. This Sahn provides one approach from Ravaq of Dar-al-Valayeh
to the holy Shrine of Imam. The building situated on the eastern part of this
Sahn is called Dar-al-Rahmeh.
Sahn Qods
This Sahn is recently built and 2500 Sq. Meters in size is situated between
Sahne Imam Khomeini and Baste Shaykh Bahai. On the ground floor there are 28
chambers each six meters high and one veranda called Qebleh which is 50 Sq Meters
in size. At the centre of this Sahn is a newly built public drinking place.
Sahne Imam Khomeini
This Sahn is located at the left side of the Holy Shrine of Imam Ridha [a] and
faces Imam Ridha Avenue. Its area is more than 8300 sq Meters. Shaykh Bahai's
tomb is located between this Sahn and Sahne Azadi.
Sahne Azadi
This Sahn is located east of the Holy Shrine and dates back to the time of Fath-Ali
Shah Qajar. It is about 85 meters long and 54 meters wide. It has four verandas,
the most famous of which is called Eivan Tala (golden Veranda) that is adjacent
to the am. This veranda was gilded at the time of Nasir-al-Din Shah Qajar.
Gowharshad Mosque
This mosque is one of the most reputed in Iran and is situated adjecent to the
Holy Shrine of Imam Ridha. It was built in 821 AH. under the orders of Gowharshad
Khatun, Shahrokh Mirza's wife. Its area is 9410 Sq Meters and includes a courtyard,
four porches and seven large prayer halls. Two beautiful minarets, each 40 meters
high, are located on both sides of Maqsureh Porch. There is an inscription on
the left on the margin of the porch written by Baisonqor, one of the best calligraphists
of the time. The Sahib-al Zaman Pulpit is in Maqsureh porch. It was built in
1243 H with walnut wood and without using any iron or nail. This mosque has
a public libray with 34,650 volumes.
Imam Ridha [a]'s Tomb
It is located beneath the Golden Dome (The Golden Dome is the most prominent
symbol of the city of Mashad with an altitude of 31.20 meters) and surrounded
by different porches each bearing a separate name. The skilled artists have
done their best in the creation of this place. It is square in shape and some
135 sq. meters have been added to its area after extension works. The walls
are covered by marble up to twenty centimeters and the next ninety two centimeters
are covered by expensive tiles known as Sultan Sanjari tiles. Quranic verses
and Ahadiths of the Ahlul Bait [a] have been carved on these tiles. The important
inscription written round the walls is eighty centimeters wide and written by
Ali Ridha Abbasi, the famous calligraphist of the Safavid period and bears Surah
Jumah of the Holy Quran.
Dar-al Hoffaz (the place of the Reciters)
This porch is located south of the Holy Shrine and northeast of the Gowharshad
mosque. It was built under the orders of Gowharshad khatoon. Yhe pilgrims pray
here seeking permission to enter the Holy Shrine. Dar-al-Hoffaz is connected
to Haram through a doorway. It has been built for the Quran reciters. Abbas
Mirza, Fath-Ali Shah's vicegerent is buried in this porch.
Towhid Khaneh (place of Divine Unity)
It is located north of the Holy Shrine and south of Sahne Enqelab. This porch
is used for ladies prayers.
Dar-al-Siyadah
Located in the western part of the Haram, this porch was built under the prders
of Gowharshad Khatoon. There is a silver window in its northeastern part from
where Imam Ridha [a]'s Tomb can be seen.
Bala-Sar Mosque
There is a small mosque attached to the west part of the Haram. It is called
Bala Sar (above the head) because pilgrims enter this mosque from the west side
of Imam Ridha [a]' s burial chamber which is Bala-Sar of Imam. It is one of
the oldest mosques in Mashad and dates back to the time of Sultan Mahmood Ghaznavi.
Dar-al Rahmah Porch
This porch has an area of 365 sq. meters and is situated in the eastern part
of Sahne Jamhuri e Islami. It has been decorated with gilding, plastor works,
mirrors and fret work and was inaugurated in 1371 AH.
The other porches are Dar-al-Ekhlas, Dar-al-Shukr, Dar-al-Salaam and Dar-al-Zekr.
Allahverdikhan Dome
It is an octagonal dome built on Allahverdikhan's tomb. He was one of Shah Abbas's
generals. It is located in northeast of Haram and decorated with colored tiles
and beautiful drawings. It is one of the most valuable artistic works inside
Haram.
Hatam Khani Dome
This dome is located east of Haram. One of Shah Abbas's ministers called Hatam
Beik Ordoobadi built it in 1010 AH.
The Golden Dome
The Golden Dome on top of Imam Ridha [a]'s tomb is the most prominent symbol
of Mashad and has a height of 31.20 meters. A large inscription has been written
round the Dome by Ali Ridha Abbasi.
Museum of Astaane Quds
The Astaane Quds museum is one of the richest and most exquisite museums of
Iran. The building is located in the eastern quarter of Sahne Imam Khomeini
and close to Haram square. Some of its objects date back to the 6th century
AH. The collection of carpets, rugs and golden covers for the Tomb are all unique
and date back to the 11 and 13th centuries. Some inscriptions written by Ali
Ridha Abbasi are among the valuable objects. Among the unique works of art in
the museum is Imam's first tombstone, the inscription of which was carved in
kufi relief script belonging to 516 H. There are also samples of relief tilework
known as Sanjari glazed tile belonging to the 6th century H. and a big stone
water pool made of a piece of blackstone decorated with the most beautiful arabesques.
Museum of The Quran
This museum is located in the vicinity of the Astaane Quds museum. It contains
precious manuscripts of the Glorious Quran attributed to the Holy Imams and
some gilded manuscripts. It was opened in 1364 H. The oldest manuscript attributed
to the Holy Imams is in kufi script on deer skin belonging to the First century
AH.
Museum of Stamps
The biggest stamp museum in Iran and was opened by Astaane Quds in 1368 AH.
Some 50000 stamps from Iran and 18 foreign countries from Qajar period to the
present time are on display in this museum. Astaane Quds Library: This library
is located in the eastern part of Sahne Imam Khomeini and was established in
681 H. It has a unique treasure of manuscripts. It contains, according to last
count done in 1368 AH., 257078 volumes of which 28218 are manuscripts and 724
photographic copies and the materials are in 36 different languages. The archives
of this library are considered a treasure of documents.
Astane Quds Mehmansara
This inn is located in Baste-e Sofla and every overseas pilgrim (zair) of Imam
Ridha [a] has a right to one free meal as guest of Imam. Meals are served everyday.
Sheikh Bahaiee
The Tomb of Baha-o-din Mohamed Ameli, known as Sheikh Bahaiee, is located between
Sahn-e-Imam and Sahn-e-Azadi in the Haram Astane Quds. Sheikh Bahaiee was born
in Baalbak in 953 H. and came to Iran with his father when he was 7 years old.
His genealogy dates back to Hareth Hamadani, the famous disciple of Imam Ali
[a]. He had a great influence on Shah Abbas King of Iran and Iranian politics
and culture and has left behind many scientific works.
Sheikh Hurr Ameli
His tomb is in Sahn-e-Enqelab in the Haram-Astaane Quds. He is one of the famous
Shiite theologians and author of Wasa'el al-Shia.
Sheikh Tabarasi
His tomb is in northern square next to Bagh-e-Rezvan and the avenue next to
it has been named after him. Fazl-ibne-Hasan Tabarasi died 548 H. is the writer
of the commentary Majma'-al-Bayan.
Khwajeh Morad
His tomb is 14 kilometers away in south east Mashad on the outskirts of Binalood
mountains (opposite Bahesht-e-Ridha cemetery). Herthameh bin Ayn, known as khwajeh
Morad was a disciple of Imam Ridha [a] and he died in 210 H.
Khwajeh Rabiee
Rabiee ben Haytham known as Khwajeh Rabiee was famous for his piety. His tomb
is in the middle of a garden bearing a high dome. Its construction dates back
to 11th century H. and is considered as a Safavid monument. It is one of the
important buildings of Shah Abbas period in Khorasan.
There are two inscriptions written by Ali Ridha Abbasi inside the shrine. The shrine is located at the end of Khwajeh Rabiee avenue and one of the great public cemeteries of Mashad lies next to Khwajeh Rabiee tomb. His death is recorded as in 63 H. Abasalt-e-Heravi's tomb: Abasalt, Imam Ridha [a]'s servant died in 236 H and was buried beside the road to Fariman 10 kilometers from Mashad.
Gonbad (Dome) Kheshti
This dome, located in Tabarasi avenue, houses the grave of Imamzadeh Mohamed
whose genealogy can be traced to Imam Sajjad [a]. The monument belongs to the
Safavid period in architectural style.
Peer-e Palandooz (the old pack saddler)
Sheikh Mohammad Aref (died 985 H.) known as Peer-e-Palandooz was one of the
most pious of his time. He was called so since he made pack saddles to earn
his living. His tomb is in front of Baste-Payeen which was originally built
by Sultan Mohammad Khoda Bandeh and has recently been reconstructed by Astan-e-Qods.
Gonbade Sabz (Green Dome)
This shrine is located in Khaki avenue and its dome has a colour close to turquoise.
Sheikh Mohammed Mo'men Aref Astrabadi, died 90 H. is buried here. He wrote the
medical work Tohfeh Hakim Mo'men. The dome was built by Shah Abbas in 1011 H.
Mosalla Mashad
This monument is located in Payeen Khiaban and has a high porch and two porticos
on both sides. According to extant inscription it was built in 1087 H. during
Shah Sulayman period.Its facade is made of bricks and it was previously used
for prayers of the two Eids. The date of construction 1086 H. has been carved
inside the Mehrab. The building is decorated with inscription and glazed tiles.
Akhanjan Tower
This tower is located 22 kilometers away from Mashad and it is believed that
the tomb of Gowhartaj, the sister of Gowharshad Agha Taimuri is here.The facade
of the tower is covered with octagon bricks and it has a conic dome.
Miami (Imamzadeh Yahya)
Imamzadeh Yahya was Zaid's son and grandson of our fourth Imam Sajjad [a] His
mother Raiteh was the daughter of Abi Hashem Abdullah ibne Mohamed Hanifah.
He was born in 107 H. and as his life was threatened by Umayyads, he migrated
from Kerbala to Madaen and from there to Khorasan. He was martyred at the age
of 18 in Jowzjan in 125 H. His tomb is on the Sarakhs road 50 kilometers from
Mashad and one kilometer from Miami village. The construction of the shrine
dates back to the 10th century H.
Nadir's monument
It is located in a beautiful garden and built by National Monuments Association
in 1958 A.D. Nadir's statute riding horse holding an axe is on the top of the
monument. The height is 5 meters weighing 14000 kilograms. There is a museum
of weapons, helmets and armours inside the monument which was inaugurated in
1342 H. Nadir Shah ruled from 1148 to 1160 AH.The Allama Tabatabaie public library
is in this monument run by Islamic Guidance Organisation.
Ferdowsi's monument
Abul quasem Ferdowsi (died 411 H.) is the greatest epic poet who composed Shahnameh
in 30 years.His shrine is located 22 kilometers northwest of Mashad alongside
Quchan road. The monument is surounded by a beautiful garden and was completed
in 1968 A.D.There are still some old walls in the end side of the garden and
there is a museum in the west part of the monument. Among the items in the museum
is a manuscript of Shahnameh weighing 73 kilogrames.
May Allah bless us all with the Ziyarat of Imam Ridha [a] more and more often.
I trust the above narrative will be of benefit to the pilgrims (zawwar) of Imam
Ridha [a].